THE ITALIAN GRILL, DUNDEE
THE ITALIAN GRILL “Strange how potent cheap ingredients are” said Noel Fielding on Bake-Off, or was it Noel Coward? I’m pretty sure it wasn’t Gallagher…. In an age of cultural appropriation, where everything including quotes and ideas is up for grabs, a visit to a restaurant can sometimes feel like a grand tour of 3 continents on a plate. That’s why there is something beautifully pure and life-affirming about Italian food cooked simply and cooked well. A glut of tomatoes simmered for hours with just a hint of basil and some seasoning, boil a bit of pasta – there’s dinner. No wonder every town has at least one trattoria-type venue where you’re guaranteed an air of conviviality, some good chow and no worries about the horses being frightened by innovation. The Italian Grill, in Dundee’s grand City Square, is such a place. It’s dark and glamorous enough for a date, in that 1980’s style which has now become timeless – but also an excellent venue for a party (there’s a pr...